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(No ModeL) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1. J. G. LYNN.

BOOT AND SHOE PATTERN.

No. 320,149 Patented June 16. 1885.

Attast Invanbcrr wflq/ulw. K

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2. J. G. LYNN.

BOOT AND SHOE PATTERN.

No. 320,149. Patented June 16, 1885.

AJLJLEEL ITLVE 01" UNITED STATES JOHN G. LYNN, OF CINCINNATI, O HIO,ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO RICHARD \VOOLEY, JR, OF SAME PLACE.

BOOT AND SHOE PATTERN.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 320,149, dated June 16,1885.

Application filed March 29, 1885.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that 1, JOHN G. LYNN, a citizen of the United States, and aresident of Cincinnati, in the county of Hamilton and State of Ohio,have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Boot and ShoePatterns, of which the following is a specification.

The object of my invention is to furnish standard or master patterns for.boot and shoe to makers, so that each can do the work which heretoforecould only be performed by a regular skilled pattern cutter and modeler.This I accomplish by making standard or founda tion patterns from sheetmetal, cardboard, or I 5 other suitable material,in sets of five sizesand of the exact size for the lasts in the set, and the exact size ofthe pattern to be cut, and then cutting slots or spaces in these masterpatterns, which subdivide them in the proper place for the variouspieces required to make a complete bootor shoe pattern. These slots orspaces are of the width required for the laps or seams. Thus eachsubdivision of the pattern for each size is held together as astencilplate or frame, and the pattern for any style boot or shoe may be markedor cut from it, as also the pattern for the lining. The outlines of thepieces in each set are cut for the highest-cut boot or shoe patterns ofits kind, and within these high-cut patterns the subdivisions are markedoff in the proper places for any of the various forms or styles in usewhich will fit the same last.

Iuthe accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, Figurel is a standard pattern in one piece for a walking orlace shoe, uponwhich are marked lines for cutting patterns for various styles of uppersto fit the samesize of last. Thebutton-fly,whichisshown 1n dotted lineupon the standard pattern, is also shown detached above the figure. Fig.2 is a standard pattern for ladies, misses, or childrens high-cut buttonor lace gaiter, showing also inlines marked upon it low-cut button orlace shoe, either plain or foxed. The button-fly pattern, which ismarked from the standard pattern is shown in detached view. Fig. 3 isblocking-out pattern for men and boys plainfront boot. Vithin theoutlines of this pattern are drawn patterns for opera or tongue bootor(No model.)

for plain congress gaiter. Fig. 4 is the pat tern for half of the backof leg for plain boot, showing also the parts for half the back of legfor opera or tongue boot, as well as the half of the counter-cover fortongueboot and the counter or stiffener for plain boot-back. Fig.

5 shows cutting over pattern after Fig. 3 has been crimped. This gives acutting-over pattern for plain fronts and opera or tongue boots andfront and half of front leg for opera .33 or tongue boot.

. Referring first to Figs. 1 and 2, these frames for proper grading aremade five in a set, in the following sizes used in the trade: Forinfants,1 to 5,inclusive; children, 6 to 10; misses, e 11 to 2; ladies,3 to 7; youths, 9 to 13; boys, l to 5; and men, 6 to 10, and upward 11to 15. Thus these eight sets will furnish complete patterns for cutting,grading, and fitting every size and style of shoe required.

For the prevailing styles of shoes I cut slots in the standard patternsthe width of the lap required for seaming the different parts, so thatin cutting a pattern for any piece the proper lap will be obtained bymarking and 7 cutting upon the side of the slot opposite from therequired piece. For instance, it is desired to make the patterns for acongress gaiter, Fig. 1. The proper sized frame being selected, thenfold a piece of paper large enough so for the vamp a. Then lay the metalframe on top, with the line a in line with the folded edge of the paper.Then out or mark around the vamp from the toe to the opposite side ofthe vertical slot 1; then up through this slot 1 on the side next theheel; thence along the upper side of slot 2 to the top. This gives thepattern for the vamp. For the foxing pattern, cut along the upper sideof slot 3 from the heel to the toe side of slot 1; thence down go thetoe side of slot 1 to the bottom; thence along the bottom out-line tothe heel, and along the heel outline to the top of slot 3. This givesthe pattern for the heel or foxing b. For the front quarter, cut theoutline from point 00 along the front and over the top to a pointvertically above the heel side of the slot 4; thence down along the heelside of slot 4. to the lower side of slot 3; thence in the directionofthe toe along the lower side of slots mo Lil 3 and 2 to the point x.This gives the front quarter a. Forthe rear quarter, out along the frontside of slot 5, from thetop down to the lower side of slot 3; thencealong the lower-side of slot 3 to the heel; thence along the outline ofthe heel upward and over the top to the point where the front side ofthe'slot 5 would meet the top line. This gives the back quarter, d. Forthe elastic gore a, cut from the top along the front side of slot 4 andthe rear side of slot 5 to the lower side of slot 3. This gives thepatterns for the exact size of each part, including the laps forseaming, so that when they are put together with the overlapping seamsthe outline will be the exact size of the outline of the frame, Fig. 1.For the lining, place the frame upon a piece of paper, and allowoneeighth of' an inch all around the frame. This givesthe proper sizefor the lining. For a lace or button-gaiter, do'as above directed,omitting to cut through the slots 4 and 5 for the elastic goring; andfor a seamless vamp the same rule applies, omitting to cut through theslot 1 between the vamp and the foxing. Tip-patterns are doubled and cutclose to-the outline of the parta for the distance from the toe backrequired for the tips.

The dotted linef,which is preferably perforated in the metal pattern,indicates the outline for the low button or lace shoe, the dotted linein connection with the outline of the front quarter, gives thebutton-fly for a' high-cut shoe,'and the dotted line It gives the frontquarter for an Alexis shoe, the back quarter for same shoe beingindicated by the dotted line h and the outline for the back quarter. Itshould be understood that these master or standard patterns are for thestandard sizes of shoes manufactured for the trade, and upon thesestandard patterns are to be marked, as indicated by dotted line, themeasurements of the standard sizes of either boots or shoes. Say, forinstance, that a pattern like Fig. 1 is for a No. 6 shoe or gaiter, thenthe ankle-measure across on the line y y would be eight and one-halfinches, the heel-measure across line 2 z twelve and three-fourth inches,the instep across line to to nine and one-fourth inches, and theball-measure across line '0 v eight and one-half inches. This is thestandard size; but to make a custom or measured pattern, if thefoot-measure vary from the standard measure marked on the frame, take acopy of the frame of the size or number required on smooth stiff paper,point off on the lines y y, z z, w w, o o one-half the differencebetween the actual measure and the measure indicated on these lines,then connect the points by a line as nearly parallel to the frontoutline as can be made by passing through all these points. This linegives the outline for any shape of shoe desired. For instance, say thatthe heel measure is thirteen and threefourths instead of twelve andthree-fourths inches, as marked on'the pattern, then make a point on theline 2 z one-half inch beyond the outline of the shoe, and so with allthe measurements. If the particular customer measure is one inch largerthan the measurements marked upon the standard pattern, then it isevident that the front outline of the paper pattern should be extendedone-half inch parallel to the front line of the standard pattern,Fig. 1. The slots for the front and back quarters and the vamp andfoxing and goring will be the same.

The above-description also applies to ladies, misses, and childrensshoes, represented in Fig. 2. The dotted linefin that figure gives theoutline for the top of a Newport tie or lowcut ladys shoe. The same ruleof course applies for measuring always.

The outline of Fig. 3 is the blocking-out pattern for a high boot, andthe slots 6 in connection with the outline give the blocking-out patternfor a tongue-boot. For cutting the front of the leg lo, cut around theoutline and along the edges of the slot 6 6 opposite the piece 70, andfor cutting the front we out along the upper or opposite edges of theslot 6 6 and the outline below it. This is not the exact size required;for after the front is crimped, as seen in Fig. 5, the crimping willvary the size according to the material used. I therefore, bycuttingover pattern Fig. 5, have the exact size required after the leather hasbeen crimped.

Fig. 4 shows the half of the back of the leg for plain bootif cut aroundthe outline and omitting the slot 7. To cut the back for an opera ortongue boot, cut around the outline of piece at down to the lower sideof slot 7 and around the lower side of slot 7; and for the counter orheel part out around the part a, to the upper edge of slot 7 and alongsaid upper edge. This also gives the stiffener for the plain boot leg.It will thus be seen that in one combined pattern-say as in Fig. 1, forinstance-I cut the pieces a, b, c, d, and e, and also the intermediatepieces for a lace or button shoe, and by the whole frame I cut out thelining pattern, making seven pieces for one size; or, in other words,Iout from the set of five pieces thirty-five pieces, all properly gradedto fit one with the otherin the order required. Besides, I am enabledalso to cut the tips and top bands, facings, &c. The same resultfollows,of course with the ladies or misses, shoes or mens boots.

As there are few shoe-makers skilled in the art of making patterns andmodels, the custom shoe-maker has had to buy his uppers from an upperfactory or dealer. These uppers are often ill fitting and not of suchstock as the custom shoe-maker requires. from the foregoing that myinvention overcomes this obstacle, as the master patterns are modeled tothe usual style of lasts and furnish combinations for all the differentstyles of boots and shoes known to the trade. With these patterns thecustom shoemaker can cut and fit his own uppers from such stock as hemay select.

It will be seen My invention is also useful to manufacturers, as theycan have full sets of patterns cut from these standard frames by anyordinary cutter not skilled in the art of grading, and

- these set-s can be produced quickly by one not an expert patterngrader.

\Vhat I claim is 1. The herein-described master pattern for formingpatterns for boot and shoe uppers, which consists of a single piece ofthe size of the desired upper when seamed together, and having slots,arranged substantially as described, subdividing the said piece forforming the different parts of the upper, the said slots being the widthof the lap desired for seaming, so that by marking upon the oppositeside of JOHN G. LYNN.

\Vitnesses:

EDGAR M. WooLLEY, Geo. J. MURRAY.

